Tuesday, February 27, 2024

H-E-B Heaven Can Wait

By Roy Ortega

 A recent article in a San Antonio newspaper asking why there are no H-E-B food stores in El Paso got me pondering the same question. However, my conclusions differ radically from those reached in the article. Frankly, H-E-B is not really a good fit for El Paso.


First, full disclosure. I am a confirmed El Pasoan. My bonafides were strictly forged in El Paso. But I wasn't born in El Paso. I was born in San Antonio, home of H-E-B. My loyalties over the span of 50-years have been almost equally divided between the cultures of two great cities.  

What Works in San Antonio Doesn't Necessarily Work in El Paso.   

One of El Paso's strongest appeals is that it is nothing like the rest of Texas. Call it the "un-Texas." I have often argued that El Paso is so different from the rest of Texas, it doesn't even belong in Texas. 


El Paso is located on the farthest reaches of the realm. It is so far to the west that it exists in a different time zone. The landscape is notable for its high deserts and mountains that are found nowhere else in Texas. West Texas politics are totally opposite of the wide conservative stripe that tends to run everywhere east of the Pecos River. El Paso's dry and cloudless weather differs dramatically from San Antonio's often hot and steamy weather. I say it again. El Paso is not like the rest of Texas. Period. 

Over the years, there have been numerous efforts by some well-meaning El Pasoans to emulate the successes of San Antonio. Among those was a silly attempt to redirect the Rio Grande near downtown El Paso to create a River Walk. Of course, those plans ended up flowing downstream unrealized.  

Another effort was a private endeavor to establish a "La Villita" shopping district complete with reenactments of old-west gunfights and shady ladies. Another fail. 

Tejano music and Tex-Mex food: Not Really a Thing in El Paso 


Truth is that Tejano music was never fully embraced by El Paso music lovers. Even at the height of the Tejano music craze of the 80s, 90s and 2000s, El Paso Hispanic music tastes remained loyal to the popular northern Mexican norteña and banda genres.

Finally, when it comes to food, don't mess with El Paso. Chico's Tacos reign. Over the years, Tex-Mex cuisine has been largely ignored in El Paso. Restuarant chains like Austin-based Chuy's and San Antonio-based Taco Cabana have made noble efforts to lure diners away from the typical Chihuahuan and New Mexican-style menus that dominate in El Paso. Again, few takers. 

Photo Credit: L&J Restaurant

Don't get me wrong. I would love to see H-E-B establish a presence in El Paso. But regionalism is a strong current to run against. El Paso is nothing like San Antonio. It doesn't want to be.

 H-E-B heaven can wait. 

Comments and criticism are welcome. Roy Ortega may be reached at rortega54@elp.rr.com

H-E-B has stores in Texas cities big and small. Why not in El Paso? (expressnews.com)